IT wasn’t exactly a perfect day for a road trip. It had been raining since the night before and there seemed to be no indication that the rains brought about by Typhoon Ondoy would stop anytime soon. Nevertheless, the thought of food-tripping from Manila to Bataan was enough to make any chowhound go through with it—rain or shine.
Mama Sita’s, one of the country’s leading manufacturers of sauces, condiments, and instant mixes such as Premium Vinegar, Sinigang Mix, Kaldereta Mix, Kare-Kare Mix, Menudo Mix, Sinamak Vinegar, Sukang-Tuba Vinegar, Oyster Sauce, among others, mapped out a Heritage Tour for selected members of the press, a three-stop route which ran up north to Angeles, Pampanga, in a favorite stop-off for hometown pizza; then an 82-mile drive southwest of Manila along the new SCTEX line to the historic region of Bataan, in a Spanish colonial resort in Bagac; and to a hole-in-the-wall joint for a feast of organic meal. The focus of the journey was a taste of the country’s culinary.
Camalig, Angeles, Pampanga
First on the list was breakfast in the country’s gourmet region—Pampanga. Here, the media group trooped to the historic Camalig (shed in Kapampangan vernacular) Restaurant located along Sto. Rosario Street in Angeles City, Pampanga.
Camalig is an 1840 shed that was used to keep lighting materials. It used to be a palabigasan (grain depot) during the colonial times and is now turned into a trendy hotspot and home to the region’s pioneering pizzeria—Armando’s Pizza. Hence, Camalig is also billed locally as the Home of Armando’s Pizza: Ang Pambansang Pizza. The restored structure has a raised dining area inside supported by authentic poles salvaged from the original structure and surrounded by a photo gallery and relics cataloguing the city’s history. There is also a patio for al fresco dining which features live performances during weeknights. Its specialty is Doy’s Kapampangan pizza which is a ‘not-so-thick and not-so-thin crust’ pizza topped with longganisa (native sausage), ebun buru (salted duck egg), onions, and pickle relish. The restaurant also serves all-time breakfast faves and a melting pot of Filipino, American, and Mexican dishes.
Las Casas Filipinas de Alcuzar, Bagac, Bataan
The next stop was in Bataan. Better known as the last bastion of hope against Japanese invaders during World War II, Bataan is located in the southwestern part of the Central Luzon Region and bounded on the north by the provinces of Zambales, on the northeast by Pampanga, on the west by South China Sea, and on the east by Manila Bay.
Since Bataan is a peninsula, every town has access to seafood both fresh and smoked—from bangus (milkfish) and kitang (spadefish), to samaral (rabbitfish) and kapak (greenback gray mullet).
The group arrived at Las Casas Filipinas de Alcuzar, the self-proclaimed heritage village resort in the town of Bagac. It is also popularly known to folks there as the Zorro backlot because it is where most of the Filipino version of the Spanish movie-turned-teleserye was shot on location. So if you’re headed there, just ask around where Zorro was filmed, and you’ll get there in no time. Las Casas served as the backdrop for the Mama Sita’s lunch prepared by Mama Sita’s head chef Andro Faderanga. The Hispanic meal consisted of Ensaladang Pako dressed in Mama Sita’s Premium Vinegar, Sinigang na Manok Sa Ayo, Pocherong Baka with Eggplant-Garlic Sauce, prepared by Mama Sita’s head chef Andro Faderanga, Paella Filipina, Kare-Kareng Dagat, and Halabos na Alimango.
Despite Typhoon Ondoy’s heavy rains, the Hispanic town in this seaside community was quaint and nostalgic and exotic and transporting at the same time. Built on a 400-hectare lot, it is home to some of the Philippines’s century-old houses such as the Bahay na Bato, the House on Stilts, some Spanish mansions, the old University of the Philippines Liberal Arts Building, and even the old Escolta with faithful adherence to architecture and paint color which had been rebuilt brick-by-brick and floorboard-by-floorboard whenever possible.
Herbs and Greens
The last stop was in Telabastagan, San Fernando, Pampanga. Although a far cry from familiar chains along Kilometer 78 on McArthur Highway, Herbs and Greens Greenhouse Resto has become a celeb-heavy hotspot which offers freshly picked greens served right at the table. The enchanting forest-like ambiance of Christmas lights amid lush greenery was a welcome reprieve from the wet and cold day.
Inside, a buffet of meat and chicken courses was waiting for the taking. All these plus bowlfuls of noodle salad made of cucumber and kani strips, bihon noodles, and sweet corn on a bed of organic greens with beef strips served with homemade vinaigrettes and dressings seasoned with herbs from the garden and local ingredients such as calamansi and fish sauce. The tarragon tea was a refreshing drink to go with the meal and the samurai crepe was the best way to cap off the meal.
The mile-long drive to these culinary melting pots proved that our culinary landscape is more than streetfood. And although the country is in the middle of rapid industrialization, our heritage is alive in every region’s cooking.
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